SHOALING OF FINITE-AMPLITUDE WAVES ON PLANE BEACHES
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
Three-dimensional shoaling of large-amplitude internal waves
[1] The three-dimensional (3-D) shoaling of large-amplitude internal waves (LAIW) is studied in the framework of a fully nonlinear nonhydrostatic numerical model. The vertical fluid stratification, parameters of the propagating waves and bottom topography were taken close to those observed in the northern part of the Andaman Sea. It was found that three-dimensional evolution of LAIWs propagatin...
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[1] The evolution and breaking of internal solitary waves in a shallow upper layer as they approach a constant bottom slope is examined through laboratory experiments. The waves are launched in a two-layer fluid through the standard lock-release method. In most experiments, the wave amplitude is significantly larger than the depth of the shallow upper layer so that they are not well described b...
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As waves propagate into nearshore waters, the wave dispersive relation is significantly affected by the nonlinear dynamics of the shoaling process (Herbers et al. 2002). This could have important effects to the interpretation and application of remote sensing results of shallow water waves (Stockdon and Holman, 2000). Many field studies are carried out based on temporally measured wave data to ...
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The waveheight change in surface waves with a sufficiently slow variation in depth is examined. Using a new formulation of the energy flux associated to waves modeled by the Korteweg-de Vries equation, a system of three coupled equations is derived for the determination of the local wave properties as waves propagate over gently changing depth. The system of equations is solved numerically, and...
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[1] A sequence of three internal solitary waves of elevation were observed propagating shoreward along a near-bottom density interface over Oregon’s continental shelf. These waves are highly turbulent and coincide with enhanced optical backscatter, consistent with increased suspended sediments in the bottom boundary layer. Nonlinear solitary wave solutions are employed to estimate wave speeds a...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Coastal Engineering Proceedings
سال: 1970
ISSN: 2156-1028,0589-087X
DOI: 10.9753/icce.v12.21